Iris van Herpen; Sculpting the Senses

Iris van Herpen is - in my opinion - one of the most fascinating fashion designers working today. She crosses the line between what is fashion and what is art better than anyone I know.

When I was recently in Paris for Deco Off - although working day and night - I was able to sneak away to see a retrospective of her works in person and found them to be so inspiring I couldn’t help but share a bit more about this designer and her work! 

van Herpen was born in Wamel, a village in The Netherlands. After graduating from ArtEZ University of the Arts in 2006, van Herpen interned at Alexander McQueen and Claudy Jongstra before branching out on her own. 

From “Sculpting the Senses”

From “Sculpting the Senses”

van Herpen was, perhaps unsurprisingly, one of the first designers to adopt and embrace 3-D printed technology and futuristic fabric manipulation, now considered a signature aesthetic of the brand and designer. 

From “Sculpting the Senses”

Although very much considered a couture house, Iris van Herpen designs are at the intersection of art and design, with her pieces always embracing volume, shape and form in a way that continues to be awe-inspiring. 

From “Sculpting the Senses”

Her debut collection in 2007 featured the brass ribs of 700 repurposed umbrellas, which not only got the attention of fashion press, but also of The Groninger Museum, which offered to buy some of the work. Those pieces are now held in their permanent collection in The Netherlands. 

From “Sculpting the Senses”

These days the brand still often collaborates with a company called Materialise NV, which offers industry-focused digital design and design technology services. You can learn more about this company here! 

From “Sculpting the Senses”

From “Sculpting the Senses”

Iris van Herpen has also collaborated with numerous artists, dancers, choreographers and other designers to push the boundaries of design. Notably they recently partnered with artists such as Anthony Howe and architect Neri Oxmann, making a name for herself with her unconventional material use, including transparent acrylic, silicone, microfiber fabric and polyester film lace.

From “Sculpting the Senses”

From “Sculpting the Senses”

With its sculptural and architectural nature, Van Herpen's designs are exhibited in various museums, including New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Royal Museum in Toronto and the Groninger Museum. Van Herpen's scientific inclination has also led to collaborations with CERN, the European Organisation for Nuclear Research and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.

From “Sculpting the Senses”

From “Sculpting the Senses”

Addendum

To my friend and talent extraordinaire, you were taken away from us all too fast, the world was just getting to know you and your inspired art. I feel blessed to have been able to collaborate with you and even more so, to simply be in your company.I know the heavens will now be graced with your stunning creativity and generous heart.

Lisa Hunt was a visual artist whose screen printed works on paper, canvas and collage, explored the spatial and meditative relationships between patterns. She participated in group exhibitions at national museums and galleries, and acquisitions of her artworks are held at the Asheville Art Museum, North Carolina; Weisman Art Museum, Minnesota; Google Headquarters, New York.

In Spring of 2020 she collaborated with WEITZNER to create Reverie — a sumptuous collection of wallcoverings and textiles reflecting her singular art pieces. She passed away peacefully this January.

Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy

A few weeks ago, I had the good fortune of being in San Francisco and in between meetings, was able to visit the Legion of Honor Museum to see the Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy. I have seen many fashion exhibits in my life but this one truly tops them all. The visuals speak for themselves as you scroll down and enjoy these miraculous examples of artisanship in all its glory. The combination of technique and fantasy blew me away. I was awestruck from beginning to end and am almost tempted to fly back to San Francisco just to experience it again.

Perhaps most famous in the US for her incredible creation worn by Rhianna at the 2015 Met, Guo Pei electrified the red carpet, and send t the internet abuzz with the firm trimmed gown.

Although the Met gown undoubtably established Guo Pei as a fashion force, Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy does not include the gown. Instead the show is a retrospective of Guo Pei’s career both before and after 2015.

Gun was born in Beijing in 1967. She graduated in 1986 from Beijing Second Light Industry School with a degree in fashion. She worked for one of China’s first fashion houses, Tianma, until 1997 when she left to start her own label and atelier. The scope of her work for one so young astounds me.

Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy features over 80 looks from the designer’s archive, focusing on the handwork, beading and intricate embroidery she has become known for.

Interwoven with the gowns themselves are videos of interviews focusing on history, technique and inspiration of the atelier.

Speaking of the show, Thomas P. Campbell, director and CEO of the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco, he says “Our Costume program highlights extraordinary designers who have changed the course of fashion history, and Guo Pei is a perfect fit: Her career is emblematic of a shift in global fashion narratives and China’s rise as a fashion leader.”

I was absolutely in awe of the incredible detail of these pieces. The golden embroidery alone was enough to captivate me for hours. Throughout the there were endless moments to focus on the details alongside the dramatic voluminous forms.

Referencing countless cultural histories that in part make China so rich in imagery and craft, Guo Pei’s work transcends what it means to be a contemporary couture atelier.

Guo is the first born-and-raised Asian designer to be invited to become a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

Beyond the gold and gild, I was especially drawn to the quieter and more updated detailing ever-present in these creations.

I cannot overstate how stunning this show is. If you find yourself in the San Francisco area now until November 27, when the show closes, you absolutely must go. You will not regret it!

via Vogue

Addendum

Recently, I went to 80 Miles North flower farm. It was a magical day that I will cherish for a long time. For more on this farm, and project, check out the link here!