Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy

A few weeks ago, I had the good fortune of being in San Francisco and in between meetings, was able to visit the Legion of Honor Museum to see the Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy. I have seen many fashion exhibits in my life but this one truly tops them all. The visuals speak for themselves as you scroll down and enjoy these miraculous examples of artisanship in all its glory. The combination of technique and fantasy blew me away. I was awestruck from beginning to end and am almost tempted to fly back to San Francisco just to experience it again.

Perhaps most famous in the US for her incredible creation worn by Rhianna at the 2015 Met, Guo Pei electrified the red carpet, and send t the internet abuzz with the firm trimmed gown.

Although the Met gown undoubtably established Guo Pei as a fashion force, Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy does not include the gown. Instead the show is a retrospective of Guo Pei’s career both before and after 2015.

Gun was born in Beijing in 1967. She graduated in 1986 from Beijing Second Light Industry School with a degree in fashion. She worked for one of China’s first fashion houses, Tianma, until 1997 when she left to start her own label and atelier. The scope of her work for one so young astounds me.

Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy features over 80 looks from the designer’s archive, focusing on the handwork, beading and intricate embroidery she has become known for.

Interwoven with the gowns themselves are videos of interviews focusing on history, technique and inspiration of the atelier.

Speaking of the show, Thomas P. Campbell, director and CEO of the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco, he says “Our Costume program highlights extraordinary designers who have changed the course of fashion history, and Guo Pei is a perfect fit: Her career is emblematic of a shift in global fashion narratives and China’s rise as a fashion leader.”

I was absolutely in awe of the incredible detail of these pieces. The golden embroidery alone was enough to captivate me for hours. Throughout the there were endless moments to focus on the details alongside the dramatic voluminous forms.

Referencing countless cultural histories that in part make China so rich in imagery and craft, Guo Pei’s work transcends what it means to be a contemporary couture atelier.

Guo is the first born-and-raised Asian designer to be invited to become a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

Beyond the gold and gild, I was especially drawn to the quieter and more updated detailing ever-present in these creations.

I cannot overstate how stunning this show is. If you find yourself in the San Francisco area now until November 27, when the show closes, you absolutely must go. You will not regret it!

via Vogue

Addendum

Recently, I went to 80 Miles North flower farm. It was a magical day that I will cherish for a long time. For more on this farm, and project, check out the link here!

In America: A Lexicon of Fashion at The Met

The Met Costume Institute is back with the first part of their two part show, entitled In America. I was lucky enough to be able to see the show in person - there is nothing as delightful as a Friday night at the Met!

Exploring the breadth of American fashion, art, craft and design through nontraditional lenses of themes rather than function, the first part of this show is aptly named, In America: A Lexicon of Fashion.

The show is inspired by, and structured around, a signature quilt from the Met’s American Wing collection that was begun in 1956 by Adeline Harris Sears. Looking at the United States through the context of a mix-up and combination of different cultural and design identities, the quilt serves as a guide through the rest of the show.

Organized into twelve sections of ‘Nostalgia,’ ‘Belonging,’ ‘Delight,’ ‘Joy,’ ‘Wonder,’ ‘Affinity,’ ‘Confidence,’ ‘Strength,’ ‘Desire,’ ‘Assurance,’ ‘Comfort,’ and ‘Consciousness.’ While I absolutely loved the entire thing, there were a few standout pieces, for me.

Prabal Guruing from In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

Prabal Guruing is an American fashion designer, born in Singapore to Nepali parents and raised in Kathmandu.

In 1999 he moved from New Delhi, where he was studying fashion and had opened his own small studio, to New York City where he attended Parsons School of Design.

He has since made a name for himself with his bright colors, mix of patterns and feminine silhouettes.

Christopher John Rogers from In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

Christopher John Rogers is a Brooklyn-based fashion designer originally from Baton Rouge Louisiana. His gown - which measures nine feet in diameter - is unquestionably a statement making piece.

An emerging American designer, Christopher John Rogers graduated from the fashion program at Savannah College of Art and Design, and a design of his was recently selected by Kamala Harris to be worn on Inauguration Day.

Claude Kameni from In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

Claude Kameni’s dramatic mermaid dress represents the word ‘Vitality.’ Originally from Cameroon, Claude Kameni debuted at last years virtual NYFW.

Named one of the most influential Black designers by WWD, Kameni’s work is debuted at the Met here.

Eckhaus Latta from In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

Eckhaus Latta designer this wonderfully textured and dimensional garment. Founded by Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus in 2011, Eckhaus Latta aims to walk the line between art and fashion.

Showing their work equally to the high fashion world, and in shows at the Hammer Museum in LA and MoMA PS1 in Queens, they work sculpture, fashion and video.

Virgil Abloh from In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

And in closing, an unexpected yet enchanting gown from Virgil Abloh. A designer, entrepreneur and DJ, Abloh has been the artistic direction of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection since 2018. He is also the chief executive officer of the Milan-based label, Off White, whose work is in the show.

Originally from Illinois and born to Ghanaian parents, Abloh met Kayne West in 2009 while interning at Fendi in Rome. After working as Kanye West’s creative director for DONDA, Abloh started his own collection, Off White as high-end streetwear, which has found widespread mainstream success.

From In America: A Lexicon of Fashion

As a celebration of the 75th anniversary of the Met Costume Institute, the show will be up for the entire year, with pieces periodically being moved and swapped out. The next installment, In America: An Anthology of Fashion will open on May 5th 2022.

Addendum

Thank you to dear Lisa Staprans for this beautiful book!